I think this was the first fully developed hot spring baths I ever went to. If you’re going to start going to baths, where better than in a town named Baths-Baths? Baden-Baden is one of the most famous spa towns in Germany. There have been baths here since at least Roman times. The most modern of these is Caracalla Therme, named for the Emperor Caracalla who visited this town almost 2,000 years ago to treat his arthritis.
Twelve springs supply the 4,000 m² of pools and saunas at Caracalla Therme. There are many different bathing areas, including a large “no-bathing suits” sauna section. The overall feel is very clean, white and modern with a passing salute to Rome from the columns and statues by the pools. There are three outdoor pools and some poolside seating but most of the baths and saunas are indoors. It can get quite busy and the atmosphere is family friendly, accepting children aged over 7 years, so it can be good to go early in the day when there is less traffic.
In the adult only nude section, there can be older German men who unabashedly ogle women. I was there with my husband so I don’t know how they behave with single women. I took it in stride as a cultural thing – when you travel you can’t expect everyone to behave the same way they do in your home country.
My best memory of Caracalla Therme was the bubble jet bath. I love underwater air jets, especially where these were located in the middle of a larger pool – it gave a real sense of airiness to the experience. I loved the sensation of so many tiny bubbles massaging my body. It gave me a tingling sensation running up my back and bubbling to the surface like champagne – it was almost a feeling of being immersed in a giant cup of bubbly Reisling, very light and airy. Being surrounded by white columns and white statues gave a very classic feel to the experience!
We spent many hours at Caracalla Therme, wandering from one experience to the other, trying different scented saunas, relaxing in the outdoors area, dining, and always returning to the centerpiece pools with their tall glass solarium walls that marry the feeling of being indoors with the feeling of being open to the air. That was my overall memory of Caracalla: a sense of airiness and openness.
In the lobby is a fountain from which you can drink the waters – at the time I went, little telescoping cups were provided as souvenirs, and I still have mine! The waters are from natrium-chloride springs and are quite strongly flavoured with salts and sulfur, so they taste medicinal and you won’t be drinking very much. The temperature at the main spring is 68C (155 F).
Add Caracalla Therme to your travel plans if you are going to the Black Forest – it’s a wonderful place to spend a day relaxing and recovering from your trip! Watch the promotional video below to see more of the interior of Baden-Baden’s Caracalla Therme.